Me & Bordeaux: Tasting the 2008 Vintage

2011 Union des Grands Crus tasting

In Part 1 of this post I lamented that I was still a palate in training when it came to Bordeaux. To that end, as mentioned, I was thrilled to receive an invite to the Union des Grands Crus tasting that was recently held here in San Francisco to celebrate the 2008 vintage. Let me count the ways. First off I’ve never had a chance to try so many Bordeaux’s. There were a 103 tables set up. Reports were that there were 95 producers represented who poured 108 wines (including some Sauternes and a few whites). Now I’ve attended many tastings but none with this focus. Think about it. 100+ wines from the same region and the same vintage. I couldn’t imagine a better learning opportunity. Another reason this piqued my interest is that 2008 is my daughter’s birth year which means I’ll be looking to build her at least a little cellar of wines from this vintage. And lastly, given my limited knowledge I didn’t know more than a handful of these Chateau’s or their price points. Given how unbiased this left me I was almost anticipating running home to compare prices on my favorites…

Me & Bordeaux: Tasting the 2008 Vintage

Now let’s get back to the event at hand. As mentioned above this is not a small intimate event. This was serious business for most in attendance. Very little chit chat, just pour sip spit and move on. To some extent I started to reflect on traveling and got to thinking this was more like sightseeing than actually experiencing something but I’ll speak to that a bit more later. As well as to the fact that I have some learning to do on how to best leverage these tastings. One lesson I did learn is that you should certainly show up on time. I arrived quite late to this event and didn’t get to taste but 40 or so of the wines. So what did I think?

Again these are the general impressions of someone not well steeped in Bordeaux so you want to take them with a grain of salt. That said, all in all I thought the vintage was of the softer, thinner side and I am guessing not as ageworthy as many. These wines, if not ready to drink now, will likely be ready in short form compared to those from more esteemed vintages. Hopefully the prices will reflect that. K&L shared one such example in a recent newsletter with Calon-Ségur, St-Estèphe with the 2009 going for $110 a bottle and the 2008 a mere $60. Given that my guess is that this would be a vintage best suited for mining some gems for the long term and drinking in the short term. St-Julien seemed to show the best followed by St-Emilion, Pauillac and Pomerol.

2008 Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien

Now after tasting 40+ wines I like to retry my top picks and see if they still stand out. Most of the time they do. With that in mind here were my Top 10 picks from this event:

Interesting! Some cursory checking showed the wines at this event spanned a price range of $22 to $80. Given that my Top 10 were comprised of four on the lower end, three in the middle and three towards the top of the spectrum. Interested in hearing what others had to say? Check out these takes:

  • 2011 UGC Bordeaux Tasting: 2008 Vintage by Richard Jennings – for those that don’t know Richard is one of the most prolific tasters I know and I highly respect his knowledge, palate and opinion. Furthermore he manages to take notes on nearly every wine he tries. His favorite red of the tasting was the “very distinctive” Gruaud Larose, which he rated 93+ pts. Glad I caught that one as well ;)
  • Thoughts on the 2008 Bordeaux Reds by Fred Swan – Fred does most of his writing over at NorCalWine.com but took a day off to spend some time with the French. He thought the St. Julien and Pauillac wines showed the best and amongst his favorites were the Chateau Gruaud Larose, Chateau Lagrange and Chateau Leoville Poyferre.
  • 2008 Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, Chicago by David Honig – For those that don’t know David he is the publisher of Palate Press, the Online Wine Magazine, and offered rather extensive notes across all the regions recommending 10+ wines.
  • 2008 Bordeaux Vintage Tasting by Adam Japko – Adam, who writes over on WineZag.com, is relatively new to me but garners the respect of many of my friends and thus has mine. His favorites were the Troplong Mondot, Leoville Barton and Pichon Lalande. He also list 15 more of his top picks.
  • Thoughts on tasting Bordeaux by Steve Heimoff – Guessing most know Steve for his work with the Wine Enthusiast but he also manages to find some time for blogging. He shares some passing thoughts on the wines (he was a fan of the Lynch-Bages as well as some perspective on the tasting.

Oh and did I mention they had 10 or so Sauternes on offer. A very nice way to finish a nice tasting. My favorites of the bunch were the 2008 Guiraud, Sauternes ($23/375ml) and the 2008 Suduiraut, Sauternes ($30/375ml). I thoroughly enjoyed this tasting event. It was perfectly organized, very enjoyable and extremely educational. Thanks to the folks at Unions des Grands Crus de Bordeaux for visiting and to the all those at Balzac Communications for the invitation. I most certainly look forward to attending in the years ahead!

*photos courtesy of Palate Press, RJonWine.com and Interest In Wine.

2009 Chariot Gypsy White

Sorry to do that to you! I’m sure you read that and right up to the end were expecting something different. That said I felt compelled to share my thoughts here as I have visited at least two stores where they are pitching the white right next to the red version of the Chariot Gypsy. Couple that with the fact that it just showed up in the latest Trader Joe’s Fearless Flyer that hit my mailbox and I had to share my thoughts. Long story short I’m not a fan of the white (nor was I of their Sauvignon Blanc from vintages ago). Read on…

Price: $4.99 @ Trader Joe’s

What They Said:

2009 Chariot Gypsy WhitePer Trader Joe’s Fearless Flyer (pdf) “Chariot Gypsy White is made just for us by a small winemaker with a big talent for handcrafting exquisite wines. Known for his ability to combine distinctive grapes to create stellar blends, for Chariot Gypsy White he went with a mind-blowing mélange of some enticing grapes from northern and central California – Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Muscat and Marsanne.

The result is a wine that’s bursting with fresh floral aromas and flavors ranging from fig and almond to apple & pear, with a crisp acidity throughout. Try it with your favorite chicken recipe, our Spinach Lasagna or Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Butter & Sage. We’re selling each bottle of Chariot Gypsy White for $4.99, which means our goal of delivering a satisfying wine experience for very little money has been accomplished – with style!”

What I Think:

(13%) 37% Chardonnay, 32% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Gewurtraminer, 11% Muscat, 5% Marsanne – Crisp floral nose with honeydew. Juicy sweet nectarine on the palate with a floral, acidic structure that shows a bit sweet and a tad syrupy throughout. Keeping this one thoroughly chilled will take the edge off that. At the end of the day I don’t have anything bad to say about this wine but it has a very limited range for my palate. Beyond pairing with spicy Asian cuisine I don’t have much use for it. Couple that with the fact that these off dry offerings are a dime a dozen at Trader Joe’s (see Green Fin, Now & Zen) and I’m not likely to buy again…

Rating: Skip It

First Take: 2009 Chariot Gypsy

Just last night I mentioned that the return of the Gypsy and was near and that sighting were beginning to be reported throughout California. Given that I decided to head over to my regular Trader Joe’s (Bay St. in San Francisco) after work tonight and see if I couldn’t track it down for myself. After checking the end caps I wasn’t expecting to find it but there it was sitting on the shelf. So I grabbed a bottle and headed off. I fully intended to taste it in the parking lot (ala 2008) but as I was already late in getting home I had to alter my plans. That said once home (and I got the kids in bed) I immediately popped the cork to see what was in store. And to stay true to the intent here are my first thoughts…

To recap, the blend percentage here (heavy on Zin/Cab) is more similar to the 2007 than the 2008 which was dominated by a Zinfandel – Petite Sirah component. That was immediately on the palate where this one has a lot more acidity than the ’08 which at times came across as overly sweet. Not quite as fruit forward but much more balanced and even for my preference. Not a great wine by any means but a nice $5 table wine for any occasion. I’ll be grabbing some more soon.

Outside of that I thought it was interesting this one was labeled at 13.5% abv. Identical to that of the 2007 and 2008. Now you can be certain this aren’t all the same given the +/- 1.5% leeway that is legal from a labeling perspective. If nothing else curious to compare to the 2009 Rabbit Ridge (for those that made it to the end of the video you’ll know I picked this one up) which clocks in at 14.6%. I grabbed the ’07 and ’08 and was expecting to see the same but nope. 2007 was 15.4% and 2008 14.7%. Now these on the other hand I am guessing are accurate. It just got me to thinking as I read an article earlier this week by Tim Fish entitled What Does It Take to Make an $8 Wine?. Given the incremental cost is getting a new label approved by the TTB it once again shows that Erich Russell and the team from Rabbit Ridge are making the most honest $5 bottle of wine out there to be had. Look forward to giving it a try soon!

Anyhow back to the Gypsy (or the Rabbit Ridge). I’d love to hear your thoughts. Did you find it? Let us know where. Did you try? What did you think?

View 2009 Chariot Gypsy Finder in a larger map

It’s back! The 2009 Chariot Gypsy returns…

Chariot GypsyIt’s official! Between comments, email, twitter and facebook I have heard numerous reports of the 2009 Chariot Gypsy appearing on shelves across California. Now those familiar with the blog will need no further introduction. For those that don’t, the Gypsy is as close as it gets to a $5 cult wine. What’s that? A cult wine has to be expensive? I disagree, it only has to inspire wide spread passion! And trust me this one does.

So what can we expect from the wine? Sadly the Chariot Wines site has yet to be updated with the latest vintage but sources tell me it is a blend of 34% Zinfandel, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Petite Sirah, 15% Merlot, 5% Sangiovese (thanks JB!). How does this compare to past vintages? The stellar 2005 didn’t have any Zinfandel or Merlot. The 2007 closely resembles this sans Merlot (37% Cabernet, 33% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah, 10% Syrah, 10% Sangiovese) whereas the ’08 had a much heavier Petite Sirah & lighter Cabernet component. I think the bigger question is can they maintain the quality as they continue to expand the production. The normal road for many of my old Trader Joe’s favorites is a journey to mediocrity after a few vintages and I fear the Gypsy may be headed down that path. What are people saying so far?

I’ve seen a review posted on Beards & Bellies, a tasting note on Cellar Tracker, received three emails and four Facebook notes on appearances and opinions. Thankfully most of them have been favorable to date. As for myself I have yet to track this one down but will surely be headed to Trader Joe’s tomorrow to see if I can’t find it. I am surely anxious to give it a try.

How about you? Have you found it yet? If so what did you think? Would love to hear your thoughts in the comments below. Happy hunting!

2009 Chariot Gypsy Finder Map
As I know people often wonder where they can find the Gypsy I decided to create a map to tracking sightings. Let me know where you’ve spotted via the comments and I’ll add it (or you can do it yourself as I shared it) to the map! Cheers and thanks in advance for making everyone elses hunt easier…

View 2009 Chariot Gypsy Finder in a larger map

2007 Vinum Cellars White Elephant

2007 Vinum Cellars White ElephantPrice: $5.99 @ Trader Joe’s

What They Said:

Per Vinum Cellars (pdf) “Light straw color, tangerine and kefir lime aromas open, but then melon, lemon and almond paste prevail. On the palate, the bright acidity is multi-dimensional from tart apple to sour cherry to fresh lemon curd. The acidity from Chenin Blanc is balanced on a complex canvas of ripe Bartlett pear and floral palate from the Roussanne, while the honeyed and nectary capacity of the Viognier provides the final harmonious ingredients to make this wine finish as the unique hybrid it was intended to be.”

What I Think:

Now Vinum Cellars has had a few quality offerings available at Trader Joe’s over the last year or so. The best amongst them (IMHO) was the 2007 (CMW) Chenin Blanc which drank very nicely for $4.99. I’ve noticed that one is back with a new vintage and a slightly modified label. Has anyone had a chance to try it yet? Just as I was reaching for it wouldn’t you know I spotted this “white elephant” and wouldn’t you know I got distracted. Yes by a label but only initially. As I read through the blend I became further intrigued and in the cart it went. The CNW will have to wait for another day. So what did we have here?

A blend of 58% Chenin Blanc, 30% Rousanne and 12% Viognier this one is light straw in the glass. A nice full nose of mixed tropical, lemon and lime fruits along with floral notes and just a hint of spice. Smooth and balanced on the palate with lemon and clean acidity leading the way. Very nice weight to the mouthfeel with crisp white fruits briefly making an appearance before lemon reemerges and drives this home to a refreshing finish that last nicely. At $6 (vs. $14) this shows very nice QPR and is better than the Emergence White and is more interesting than the aforementioned Vinum Chenin Blanc Trader Joe’s has/had on offer. I’ll certainly be looking to get some more. If you decide to do the same would love to hear your thoughts…

Rating: Buy It

2007 Rio Vaca Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Rio Vaca Cabernet SauvignonPrice: $5.99 @ Trader Joe’s

What They Said:

Per the bottle “Our Rio Vaca estate vineyard is planted alongside the Vaca Mountains just twenty miles east of California’s most renowned wine growing region. Vaca Small Lot Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is classically structured, full bodied and exudes dark currant and ripe blackberry flavors. 14-months aging in small French and American oak barrels adds layers of spice and imparts a long, supple finish.”

What I Think:

Yesterday I covered the Chardonnay from this winery which I was surprisingly a fan of. I also covered off on the back story of Rio Vaca Vineyards or what I could find of it there. So with those bases covered what do you say we just jump right into their Cabernet offering. Well alrighty then…

Dark, dense in color this shows leafy currants on a dry tannic nose. The palate starts juicy loaded with blueberries (with a slight mineral tinge) before a nice acidity emerges on the mid-palate. From there creamy, vanilla flavors come to the fore before drying out to cheek grabbing tannins which linger on a short finish. Definitely a whole lot of barrel going on here but its well done. Comforting and familiar like a warm blanket. Now I could certainly pick this apart (perhaps thin and a bit hot) but my opinion is that at $6 few will be disappointed by this wine. Furthermore I think it has a chance to pleasantly surprise even more!

Rating: Buy It

2008 Rio Vaca Chardonnay

Price: $5.99 @ Trader Joe’s

What They Said:

2008 Rio Vaca ChardonnayPer the bottle “We grow world-class Chardonnay grapes on our Rio Vaca estate vineyard alongside the Vaca Mountains just twenty miles east of California’s most renowned wine growing region. Vaca Small Lot Reserve Chardonnay is barrel fermented in 100% French oak to enhance its ripe pineapple, guava and crisp citrus flavors and to impart a long, richly textured finish.”

What I Think:

Whereas the URL (vacawines.com which doesn’t resolve) that is on the bottle is of little help our friends at the TTB can tell us this comes courtesy of Constellation Brands. Some mention of Mondavi and some Ravenswood but nothing definitive there. That said I did find a Rio Vaca Vineyards brand page on the Constellation site that indicated this wine was meant to be priced around $15 retail and was made by Blake Kuhn which may sound familiar to fans of Toasted Head wines. The brand page claims these wines are “Estate-vineyard focused wines just 20 miles from Oakville and Stags Leap on the eastern side of the Vaca Mountains but just $15 instead of $50″. What say the juice? Glad you asked…

Nice pineapple and citrus notes on the nose. Makes me flash back to my younger days when I use to slice pineapple after pineapple before marinating them in Malibu rum and heading off to the Jimmy Buffet concert. And it doesn’t disappoint from there. Rich, full bodied and structured with crisp green apple flavors on the palate and (or but for me…) a toasty, buttery banana finish that lingers on nicely. I actually find this pleasant which make me guess most California Chardonnay lovers would really dig it for $6. If you are out there and have had this one I’d love to hear your thoughts. Otherwise I recommend you grab a bottle soon. I’m headed out to grab more tomorrow and this is all but a lock to appear in the next rendition of my Trader Joe’s Top 10 Wines List!

Rating: Buy It (<- Almost unheard of for Chardonnay...)

Special shout-out to @ericsinsideout for the tip on this one!

Me & Bordeaux: Part 1

Me & Bordeaux: Part 1

Ah Bordeaux! Where to begin… Bordeaux and I have been trying to reach an understanding now for what seems like forever. You see when I was new to wine I didn’t exactly feel welcome if fact I was intimidated. With the mystique of the 1st growths it always seemed to be the holy grail of the wine world. The exclusivity the prices demanded made me feel like an outsider looking in and wondering if I’d ever be part of the club.

So you try a few and to no one’s surprise you don’t get it straight away because Bordeaux is for the most part inaccessible to those just starting to learn about wine. How so? Should I count the ways? 1) Certainly by price. 2) These wines typically take years to shine which is problematic for those that didn’t start collecting ten years before they became enthusiastic about wine. And finally 3) The newbie palate struggles at best to enjoy future greatness now; especially when they can only afford to shell out $30 once. Of course this is all rendered moot if you are lucky enough to have a wine sugar daddy with a deep cellar to teach you the ropes (if you are out there listening I am a willing apprentice…).

Now over the years I’ve tried hard to gain an understanding. Obviously Trader Joe’s is not the place to be learning about Bordeaux. So I’ve purchased a fair number of wines that K&L Wines, a favorite retailer and Bordeaux mecca, spoke highly of in their newsletters. With some learnings I decided to try an older offering or two starting with the 1994 Les Ormes de Pez, St-Estèphe ($30). Around that time I had my first child who I wanted to build a cellar for. That pushed me to accelerate my efforts. Around the end of 2009 I had a memorable experience with the 2006 Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc ($30). I followed this up in early 2010 with tickets to Fête du Bordeaux , a K&L tasting dinner, where I sampled a handful of the 2007 vintages but more importantly a handful of aged offerings from 1975, 1990 and 2000. During the holidays I had my best experience yet with the 2001 Larmande, St-Emilion ($40) which I picked up for a dinner with friends. Smooth, elegant and balanced a fantastic bottle for sure.

So where does that leave me? I still feel like a novice here. While I know the difference geographically between left bank and right I certainly can’t speak to a bottle I’ve had from each of the major appellations. With that said you can imagine my pleasure when I received an invite to the recent Union des Grands Crus tasting that was recently held here in San Francisco to celebrate the 2008 vintage. A fantastic opportunity to learn more. I covered off on my findings there in part two of this post. In the meantime I have a few more Bordeaux’s of interest on hand. Another of the 1994 Les Ormes de Pez I recently picked up from K&L Wines. And a few I got from friends as special gifts over the years; the 1998 Chateau Figeac St. Emilon as well as the 1998 Cos d’Estournel, St-Estèphe. Other than that I am always open to suggestions though my budget may limit my ability to act on them… And if anyone out there is looking for an apprentice you know where to find me. Cheers!

Interested in reading more on Bordeaux? Check out my thoughts on the 2008 Vintage